Rome: The Best Churches
Jesus conducted his ministry in Judea (now Israel and the West Bank) and was crucified in Jerusalem. I have no interest in repeating the passion play here. It is worth noting that the Catholic Church, the direct descendant of Jesus and the original apostles, is not based in Jerusalem, but in Rome. Both Judaism and Christianity have strong historical connections to the Mideast, but adherents to Islam now constitute the overwhelming majority of residents in the original Biblical lands. There are 7 millions Jews in Israel and scattered Christian outposts in the region, but Jordan, Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, Saudi Arabia and Iraq are Arab and Muslim. Big loss for the Christians in the Crusades! How did Rome end up as the capital of the church? The answer is simple. Peter, the favorite apostle of Jesus (on this rock I will build my church Simon) was sent as missionary to Rome- the most important city in the world at the time. Rome was the heart of the Roman Empire and Peter entered the political lion’s den when he arrived in Rome. He was followed by Paul and their activities led to their imprisonment and death. They planted the seeds of the Christian sect in Rome and the Bishop of Rome (The Pope) has, with a couple of exceptions, been based in Rome for the past 2000 years. The Pope resides in Vatican City and the College of Cardinal Conclave which elects each Pope meets in the Sistine Chapel. The footprints of the Catholic Church are all over Rome proper. Italy remains a very Catholic country, although weekly Mass attendance and participation in church activities has fallen precipitously in the contemporary era.
The centrality of Rome to the mission of the Catholic Church has obviously made Rome a very Catholic city. The most obvious manifestation of the Church’s significant role in the city’s development, particularly post- Renaissance is the hundreds of churches that anchor its neighbourhoods. Churches are literally everywhere as you complete your walking tours of The Eternal City. Every major religious order, recognising the need to establish a credible presence in the heart of Christendom, constricted a major cathedral or basilica to honour their work. The Renaissance and Baroque periods, fueled by generous funding from the church, powerful Roman families and donations from the common man, created a skyline filled with spectacular churches. Most of the most important and architecturally significant church structures remain and are open for visits and viewing. The church tours should be on the itinerary of every visitor to Rome, even if you are not Catholic. They are monuments to history and project majesty and grandeur. The art collections are unparalleled - basically quasi museums. They showcase major internationally recognised architectural movements. They house relics and artifacts. They are history lessons. They potentially present opportunities for spiritual reflection, although tourists doing selfies can undermine that atmosphere. Do not rush your visits. Examine the doors, the side chapels, the nave, the apse, the main altar. Imagine and appreciate the individuals who designed, built and adorned these buildings and reflect on the nature of the institution that had the power and authority to make these spectacular structures a reality. They also are sites of pilgrimages today from people all over the globe. They radiate the history and spirit of the Catholic community.
Spontaneous vists to small neighbourhood churches can also be satisfying and you may even see some practicing Catholics. Today, I will identify the Best Churches in Rome and provide bullet like descriptions on why they merit a visit. Don’t church binge on a daily basis. You will become overstimulated and lose your observational edge. Work the neighbourhoods and include stops to 1-2 churches a day. Let it flow naturally. Some justify two hour guided tours while others are suited for 20 minute eyeballing.
1) St Peter’s Basilica
Simply stated, the most important church in Christendom. Complete a walking tour of St Peter’s Square first. It is an engineering and artistic achievement in its own right. On entry to the Basilica take the long view. It is enormous AND beautiful. Private guided tours (avoid the lines at all costs) with an art history PHD is the ideal way to approach this wonder of the world. Bernini was the master designer- a genius. He also designed the canopy above the main altar which purportedly rests directly above the bones of St Peter. The iconic dome was designed by Michelangelo- a super genius and is a jewel of Renaissance style and engineering. The renowned Pieta sculpture, also created by Michelangelo is featured near the Basilica entrance. If you are physically able, take the rapidly narrowing staircase to the roof. If you are not claustrophobic, take the Scavi tours of the underground passages below the main structure. You view ancient Roman ruins and are introduced to Peter’s bones. Visit the burial sanctum for many of the Popes. St Peter’s should be visited each occasion you travel to Rome- you will see something wondrous and new every time. Also make an effort to attend a Papal audience in the Square.
2) St John Lateran
This church is officially the home cathedral for the Bishop of the Rome- The Pope! It has a striking curb appeal from all angles of approach. Its facade has bold statues and carvings and the interior has impressive frescoes and mosaics. It has a gorgeous Cosmatesque floor and the main altar is said to contain the skulls of St Peter and St Paul. There are Holy Stairs, representing the stairs Jesus climbed to meet Pontius Pilate. The overall impact is austere, even cold. The church may not project warmth or spirituality, but it is a “must see” by virtue of the architecture and its historical importance.
3) The Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore.
This is one of the oldest churches in Rome- built around 440AD. It was the first church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary. There are over one hundred mosaics detailing major events from the Old and New Testament. It is a very old church and has a gloomy aura. It is a major pilgrimage site and visitors congregate around the gold ceiling in the Nave, the Borghese Family Chapel with a Virgin Mary icon and its Sistine Chapel with frescoes by Melozzi di Forli.
4) Basilica of Santa Maria Del Popolo
One of the best churches in Rome for art lovers. It has a great location in the always crowded Piazza del Popolo. The footprint of the church is small, but the art collection is a Renaissance treasure trove. Side chapels contain work by Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini. The Chigi Chapel was designed by Raphael and the Cersasi Chapel features two Caravaggio masterworks.
5) St Paul Beyond the Walls
A cool church built in a Romanesque and Byzantine style. There are exquisite marble columns in the cloister, the tomb of St Paul under the altar and Byzantine frescoes in abundance. It was founded by Emperor Constantine and shows its age. It is rather primitive compared to other churches on this list, but it goes back to the 400’s and is a classic example of the advantages of age before beauty.
6) The Basilica of San Clemente
St Clement was an early Pope. This is a significant archaeological dig. The site is multilayered. The 12th century basilica is built on top of a 4th century church which was constructed on top of a 1st century Roman temple. There are geometric floors and a bell tower. There is fantastic 12th century mosaic in the apse depicting Jesus on a cross that dissolves into a tree. The Roman underground site is super cool- with a shrine dedicated to Mithras- a Persian God with a loyal following in ancient Rome.
7) Basilica of Sant Agostino
This church holds the tomb of St Augustine’s mother, St Monica. Caravaggio’s Madonna of the Pilgrims, holds center stage and is an earthy and controversial portrayal of the Virgin Mary. There is Raphael’s Isaiah, a ceiling depiction of St Augustine by Pietro di Cortona and sculptures by Sansovini and Tatti. This is great baroque architecture and there is also an adjoining Renaissance period library which is open for research.
8) Sant Ignazio
I was taught by the Jesuits and love this Jesuit themed basilica. Another imposing example of Baroque architecture. Saints Gonzaga and John Berchman are entombed in separate chapels. There are ceiling frescoes of St Ignatius designed by Andrea Pozzi. There is sophisticated interior stucco walls and the famous Dome was designed by Filippo Rogazzini. We have attended Mass here on several occasions and definitely feel more “Catholic” when worshipping in such sacred space.
9) Santa Maria In Trastevere
The original Roman Catholic Church-sanctioned by the Emperor in 313AD and locus of the first “legal” Mass. It was built in the 3rd century and remodeled in the 12th century. This is pre Renaissance stuff. It faces a piazza with an historic fountain. The art work is primarily mosaics. There is a magnificent gilded ceiling and 22 large symmetrical columns line the nave. A mid- day visit to this church is a nice break from the helter- skelter street life in Trastevere.
10) Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
This is a Roman rarity, a Gothic church. There is a sculpture by Michelangelo and tombs of a Medici Pope, St Catherine and Far Angelica. It was built on top of the pagan Roman temples of Minerva and Isis.
11) San Lorenzo Fuori Le Mura.
A very impressive church in the San Lorenzo Quarter. If you stay at Rome Soho House, you are a 2 block walk from this Byzantine Church. The site was chosen because legend tells us that it was the burial site of St Laurence, one of the early martyrs. It is a Papal favourite and the mother of Pope Pius XII is buried here. The Pope made one of his few trip outside the Vatican during WWII after the British bombed the district in 1943. It is a popular site for pilgrims. Verano Cemetery is immediately adjacent to the Church and also warrants a guided walking tour.
12) Santa Cecile in Trastevere
Famous for its 13th Century fresco- The Last Judgement, by Pietro Cavallini. A familiar site selection pattern because it is built on the site of St Cecila’s martyrdom. There is beautiful courtyard around the entrance to the church. There is a beautiful 16th century sculpture of St Cecilia by Stefano Maderno. Another good choice for a quick visit before you dine or party in Trastevere.
13) Santa Maria Degli Angeli dei Martino
Located on the massive Piazza della Republica- designed by Michelangelo and part of the Baths of Diocletian ruins and excavation. They have a solar medium which set the official time for Italy- the Roman Greenwich.
14) Church of Sant Stefano Rotondo
A Romanesque/Renaissance architectural curiosity. It has a unique circular design, marble Roman columns, a serene garden and special frescoes.
15) San Luigi Dei Francesco
The “French” Baroque church in central Rome. It should be higher on my list based on objective factors, but my perceptions are impacted by my vivid recollections of swarms of French visitors loudly proclaiming the superiority of “their” church to all others- including St Peter’s. OUCH! It is marvelous structure designed by Giacomo della Porta. There are artistically rich side chapels with marble altars. It is large, but not overwhelming. The ceiling frescoes are brilliant works by Giovanni Berglione. The main drawing card is Caravaggio’s painting on the Lives of St Matthew- a very special place.
